VOTED BEST CATCH CAN, BEST ECOBOOST CATCH CAN, BEST CORVETTE CATCH CAN

We will be updating and addihttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6h_FOzFMcs&t=735s


EXCELLENT VIDEO COPY AND PASTE

 https://youtu.be/v6h_FOzFMcs



 BUYERS BEWARE!!!!!

RXPERFORMANCEPRODUCTS.COM AND RXSPEEDWORKS.COM

ARE IN NO WAY AFFILIATED WITH US AND THEY DO NOT SELL THE REAL TIG WELDED AMERICAN MADE RX CATCH CANS.  THEY SELL THE SNAP TOGETHER CANS ( THEY CALL MODULAR (FUNNY)  ) AND GUESS WHERE THEY MAKE THEIR CANS??? 

WE HAVE MULTIPLE PATENTS PENDING AND ARE THE ONLY COMPANY HAND MAKING AND TIG WELDING CANS MADE IN THE USA. 

PLEASE REMEMBER IF YOU ARE BUYING FROM ANY COMPANY CLAIMING TO SELL THE RX CATCH CAN JUST ASK IF IT IS TIG WELDED AND MADE IN THE U.S.A.

BUYERS BEWARE!!!
PLEASE ONLY PURCHASE THE REAL CANS FROM US.

TEAMRXP.COM OWNED BY TEAM SKI RACING L.L.C.

PLEASE EMAIL US FOR INSTRUCTIONS THERE ARE 100 DIFFERENT WAYS TO INSTALL THESE SYSTEMS BETWEEN RACE CARS AND DAILY DRIVERS.

Here is the video I was mentioning on the 2.7:


Mount location varies, but the main routing is as follows:

Cleanside:

Remove engine cover.

Remove stock hard plastic tube that runs from drivers side valve cover to the driverside turbo inlet. Simply unsnap. Make sure to note the flow direction of the flow sensor in the 2.7 L cleanside tube as you will need to relocate that into the new line. Cap the barb left open on the drivers side valve cover with included vacuum cap.

Remove oil fill cap and install the new cleanside lower plastic section and twist to lock in oil fill tube.  Now cleanside can be simply pulled out of plastic bottom to add oil. Run hose from barb on cleanside to top portion of air box where you drill and tap for 90* fitting. Install flow sensor into new cleanside line now. (heat gun or hair dryer can heat tube to allow you to pull the sensor out, or slit tube carefully to release from plastic tube.

  From can, center of can run hose to barb on passenger side valve cover (remove hard line and keep that ran from top front of IM to this barb) and use 90* OEM barb included to snap onto that barb.

One outer fitting on can w/checkvalve flowing away from can connects to straight OEM fitting and snap onto barb at front top of IM.  

Other outer fitting on can w/checkvalve flowing away from can to a T that connects on one end to another straight fitting that snaps onto barb on drivers side turbo (used to be the stock cleanside line).  Then other end of T hose runs to a barb you drill and tap and install into passenger side turbo inlet tube. Make SURE it is the inlet tube coming from air box assy.

2016 and up Ford Ecoboost 2.7L

install instructions.

(can be used for other 2.7L platforms as well, only mount location will vary and orientation of the engine)

 

 

 

The can will install on the inside of the engine compartment off of the bolt for the radiator shroud: (Note, bend offset extension in vise to achieve as level of can mount).



 

 You will remove the hard line from the passenger side valve cover and intake manifold and set aside to retain if in the future you wish to revert back to stock. The hose from the center of the can will have no check valve, but will have a T near the drivers side that you run a 3/8” hose to the flow/pressure sensor you unsnap from the stock driver side clean line. It then connects to the passenger side valve cover with the OEM 90* snap on fitting, and the other end to the can center.

 

Now one outlet form the can with check valve inline flowing away from the can will connect to the vacuum barb left open on the passenger side of the intake manifold.

 

We now move to the drivers side. You remove the hard line that connects to the driver side turbo inlet, and unsnap carefully the flow/pressure sensor from the stock line. Keep the stock hard line for future if needed, and you will take the length of 3/8” hose and clamp one end to the flow sensor. The other end of this hose connects to the 1/2”x1/2”x3/8” T that is installed into the center line from the can as mentioned earlier.

 

This should prevent any CEL light from coming on in relation to the PCV system.  Cap the barb left open now on the driver side valve cover with included vacuum cap:

This also shows the flow/pressure sensor relocated and clamped to 3/8” hose. Zip tie to other line to secure. Install the lower plastic base of the clean side unit to the oil fill cap, and set aside and keep your original cap if needed for later:

CSS CLEAN SIDE SEPARATOR IS OPTIONAL:



So you simply push CSS in to seal, and pull to remove for adding oil in future.

 

Second outlet from can w/check valve inline flowing away from the can will then snap onto the barb left open on driver side turbo inlet. IF you wish to have the best available evacuation when in boost, you will drill and tap into the passenger side turbo inlet tube. As close to the turbo inlet as possible, and then T passenger and drivers side together and then to check valve hose to second can outlet.

 

Final step, drill and top into the upper section of the stock air box on the side that faces to the rear of the truck, and install 90* barb and connect line from this to the CSS barb. (add the quick snap clamps to this barb to secure hose tight).

 

You should now be complete. Drain is a ¼ turn ball valve that is closed when sideways, and open when straight up and down. Always drain after engine is warm and off, not running. Check at 500 miles to begin to judge the rate of filling for your engine, and then 1-2,000 miles after this. Cold climates below 45* F you may need to when below freezing drain every 400-500 miles!!! Due to the added water and un-burnt fuel present.

 

Always dispose of contents as you would drain oil. Don't pollute!

 

What your catching is a mix of the contaminates that would other wise accumulate in your engine oil and be ingested as well. This is far more than oil, these systems are so effective they remove and trap the water, fuel, acids, and particulate matter as well as other contaminate before they can settle and mix with your engine oil.

Thats it!

TeamRXP